I have been checking out the models for the last couple weeks and could see there was potential for a clean west northwest swell for Southern California. Everything pointed to a good day. Winds, tides, and swell. So I called a friend and photographer (Jackson Dougherty) to let him know where I was going. We both agreed on our favorite reef break.

4am wake up call, get the coffee going and hit the road. I met up with Jackson before sunrise and couldn’t see the waves, but we could here it. He got his camera and housing together and in 20 minutes we were out there. As our eyes adjusted in the dark we could see and hear the whitewater pounding the reef.

“NO ONE IS OUT!” I screamed to Jackson. As soon as we were out the back the sun started peaking through and we were greeted with perfect offshore and glassy 6 to 8 foot pipes. This day was one for the memory bank.

By David Weedall